Composting at Home

Gardening & Outdoors

20 Things You Need to Know Before You Start Composting at Home

Get the dirt on how to master the process.

By Arricca Elin SanSoneUpdated: May 25, 2023

If you're tossing out your household kitchen waste—such as coffee grounds and eggshells—and you're not recycling yard waste, such as leaves and grass clippings, you're wasting all the good stuff! All of these items, which end up in a landfill, actually belong in your compost bin.

Composting is easier than it seems, and it gives you a chance to create your own gardener's gold, which is what gardeners call this rich mixture of decomposing materials that can be used to enrich your garden. A compost pile doesn't have to take up a ton of space, so you can do it on a small or large scale—and it doesn't matter whether you have a tiny garden plot or a rambling country garden.

Best of all, compost is free! All you need is a mixture of yard and kitchen waste materials, time, and patience. Eventually, solid materials will break down enough for you to use—and your compost will improve your soil's texture and water-holding capabilities in containers (or mixed in with native soil when you plant shrubs and trees).

Ahead, here's everything else you need to know about composting.

1. You can DIY a compost bin.

If you're handy, you can make your own compost bin on the cheap by using a garbage can with a lid and drilling six to nine rows of one-half inch holes on each side to promote air circulation and drainage. You can also build one even more inexpensively by making it from a section of wire mesh.

2. You can make a compost pile on the ground.

You don't necessarily need a container. If you have room behind a shed or garage, you can simply make a compost pile. It's low-tech, but it works just fine. Aim for a pile that's 4' wide by 4' deep by 4' high. This size retains enough heat to help things break down, but it's not too big or unmanageable.

3. You'll need a convenient spot for your compost bin.

Your compost bin should be located somewhere handy so you'll remember to use it—and it doesn't matter if it's in the sun or shade. However, it's not always the prettiest lawn decoration (you don't want to create anti-curb appeal for your home), so be mindful of the view. If you have to place it somewhere that's visible from the street, you may want to opt for a commercial unit, which is more aesthetically pleasing.

4. You can compost a lot of stuff!

A lot of different materials can go into your compost bin. Keep a lidded countertop bin handy (or just a bowl, though that can get smelly) to collect food waste when you're cooking.

You need a balance of green materials—which are fresh, moist plant materials—and brown materials, which are dry, carbon-rich plant materials with no life in them.

Green/wet materials :

Fruit and vegetable scraps

Eggshells

Grass clippings

Coffee grounds/filters and tea leaves/tea bags without staples

Brown/dry materials:

Dry/dead leaves

Wood chips and wood ash

Straw

Chopped up twigs

Dryer lint

Paper towels or napkins

5. But some items don't belong in your compost pile.

Some items should never be put into your pile. That includes pet waste, meat scraps, whole eggs, bones, dairy, fat, leftovers, or diseased plant material or weeds. Food waste can attract unwelcome visitors, like rats, while disease may survive to infect new plants when you use your compost. And weed seeds may not be killed if your compost pile isn't hot enough.

6. You don't need microbes to activate the composting process.

Although there are commercially available "inoculant" products that promise to jumpstart the process for you, research has shown they're not necessary. There's no real evidence that these products make the process more efficient.

7. Make sure you mix and layer wet and dry materials.

Layering them like a lasagna is the best way to build up your compost pile or fill your bin. The ideal ratio of green/wet items to brown/dry items is three parts brown materials to one part green for most efficient composting. Some experts say you can fudge that a bit if you end up with more brown or more green material from time to time, but it will take the pile longer to break down.

8. Chop stuff up before adding it.

Remember that smaller pieces decompose more quickly than large ones. For example, grind up leaves before you add them to the pile instead of putting them in whole.

9. Water your compost.

Compost needs moisture for microorganisms to grow so they can do their work and break down materials. If it hasn't rained in a few days, add some water to your pile or bin.

10. But don't let your compost get too wet.

The correct moisture level should feel like a wrung-out sponge, not a sopping wet one. Too much moisture can lead to anaerobic conditions, which slow down decomposition and, well, cause your pile to stink! If it gets too wet, use a pitchfork to mix it up and add some more dry or brown materials.

11. You'll need to turn the compost regularly.

Mix the pile once or twice a month to introduce oxygen and help the decomposition process along. A pile that isn't mixed will take three or four times longer to be ready to use. Use a compost aerator or a garden fork to turn it several times.

12. Check your compost pile's temp.

Compost piles heat up when microorganisms feed on waste. The goal is to keep your pile between 110 to 145 degrees Fahrenheit, which is ideal because it's hot enough to kill any lurking disease organisms that have snuck into your pile. But a pile that's too hot (160 degrees Fahrenheit) can kill hungry microbes and end up slowing down the decomposition process. Use a compost thermometer to check on progress—and turn the pile if the temperature is dropping, but don't turn it if it's rising or in the correct range.

13. If your compost gets smelly, add some air.

This is when you need to turn the pile and add dry materials if the compost feels too wet.

14. Add more nitrogen if the pile isn't hot enough.

If your pile doesn't smell bad, but isn't in the ideal temperature range, try adding some more green materials—such as fresh grass clippings—or garden amendments, such as blood meal.

15. Be patient!

How long does it take for compost to compost? Well, if you've been turning your pile, it's in the ideal temperature range, and you have the correct moisture level and ratio of brown to green materials, your compost should be ready in about three or four months. However, activity will slow down in cold weather, so it might not be ready quite as quickly in fall or winter. And if you haven't been turning it or keeping everything in balance, it may take up to a year or more to decompose and be ready for use.

16. Check your compost for readiness.

You're trying to be patient, but how do you know when your compost is ready to use? Basically, when the materials no longer look like the original materials. The compost should be crumbly and dark brown and smell earthy.

17. Use compost to improve the soil in beds and container plantings.

Once your compost is ready, you can mix it into beds and containers, or use it to topdress around existing plants or shrubs.

18. You can mulch on top of compost.

If you've added compost to beds, it's totally fine to mulch on top of it if you want a more finished look. This can help keep down weeds and retain moisture. The layer of compost underneath will break down more quickly than the mulch.

19. You can add compost to your garden in spring or fall.

Should you add compost in the fall or spring? Great question! It's fine to add it at either time—or in both spring and fall. It breaks down quickly, so you can't really overdo it. If adding to garden beds, you can spread it over the top of the soil or lightly fork it in.

20. Compost is not a substitute for fertilizer.

It may come as a surprise to you, but compost is not the same thing as fertilizer. Yes, it does contain a small amount of nutrients, but it's very low and not sufficient for plants that are heavy feeders, such as tomatoes. Compost's biggest job is to serve as a soil amendment to improve drainage and soil compaction and to increase the activity of soil organisms. You'll need additional fertilizer to feed your hungry vegetable garden.

Compost tumblers are sealed, elevated containers that speed up decomposition (3–9 months) through easy, regular aeration, making them ideal for small yards, beginners, and pest prevention. Conversely, compost bins are larger, open-bottomed units (7–20 cubic feet) that handle higher volumes of garden waste, produce richer compost, and are generally more cost-effective.

Pros: Fast, easy to turn (no shovel needed), keeps pests out.

Cons: Higher cost, lower capacity, can become waterlogged if not balanced with enough brown materials.

Best for: Small, urban, or suburban yards with mostly kitchen waste.

Compost Bin Pros & Cons

Pros: Lower cost, high capacity, allows worms/microbes to enter from the ground, better for large-scale decomposition.

Cons: Harder to turn (requires manual labor), can attract rodents if not managed properly.

Best for: Large gardens with significant grass clippings, leaves, and waste.

Key Decision Factors

Space: Tumblers suit small spaces; bins fit large yards.

Effort: Tumblers require regular, easy spinning; bins require turning with a pitchfork.

Volume: Bins hold 2–3 times more material than tumblers.

Pests: Sealed tumblers are better at keeping rodents out.

Compost bin vs pile: which option should you choose?

Similar to a compost bin, a tumbler is enclosed and usually off the ground slightly. One of the biggest perks is its easy ability to turn — no pitchfork require...

KALAMAZOO SILENT OBSERVER PROGRAM

Silent Observer encourages members of the community to assist local law enforcement agencies in the fight against crime by overcoming the two key elements that inhibit community involvement: fear and lack of interest.

Silent Observer provides a telephone hotline and web tip page  to encourage citizens in the community to volunteer vital information helpful to law enforcement agencies in their crime-fighting efforts.   In addition, tips can be submitted through the free app "P3Tips." 

Callers can remain anonymous and are eligible to receive a cash reward if the information given leads to an arrest and conviction, or grand jury indictment, of a felony offender.

Silent Observer relies on volunteer Directors and tax deductible contributions from the public in order to operate the administration of the program.  

WWW.kalamazoosilentobserver.com